It’s 6:00 AM this mid-October morning, and Bob, my fellow outdoor photographer, picks me up at home. Today, we are venturing out in the dark to capture the best light at the Nauset Lighthouse. This trip to Wellfleet, Cape Cod, will take about an hour, but photographing this iconic structure at sunrise will be well worth it.
We park the car just as the sun peeks from the horizon. The Lighthouse is the first thing that comes into view in all its glory. In addition to the allure of its presence at the top of a moderately steep hill, this red and white monolith looks out over the ocean, a serene site to behold.
Built in 1838, the Nauset Lighthouse has stood sentinel over the Cape Cod coastline for nearly two centuries. Originally constructed to guide mariners safely past the treacherous waters, the lighthouse has grown to embody the region’s spirit. However, the story of Nauset Lighthouse is not simply one of standing tall against stormy seas; it’s also about resilience and preservation.
The coastline has been steadily eroding, and the lighthouse faced the threat of being washed away. In a monumental relocation effort, Nauset Lighthouse was moved 1500 feet inland in 1996. This engineering feat preserved the historic structure and ensured it would continue to serve as a navigational maritime traffic beacon.
With its iconic red and white color scheme, adopted in 1955, Nauset Lighthouse has become an emblematic symbol of the Cape Cod landscape. Today, the lighthouse, operating with its original third-order Fresnel lens, glows brightly for mariners, visible from approximately 13 nautical miles. Furthermore, its listing on the National Register of Historic Places underscores its significance as a lighthouse and a piece of American maritime heritage.
While standing before the Nauset Lighthouse, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of connection to the tales of those who lived and and worked here. Local lore speaks of the “ghost” of a former lighthouse keeper who is said to roam the grounds, perhaps keeping watch over the seas he once guarded. Whether accurate or simply the result of an overactive imagination, these stories deepen the lighthouse’s charisma and charm.
Nauset Lighthouse has certainly weathered its fair share of storms, literally and figuratively. During fierce winter storms, waves crash dramatically against the cliffs, often sending sprays of water up toward the lighthouse. Photographers over the years have captured these explosive moments, as the juxtaposition of nature’s fury with the steadfast lighthouse creates breathtaking imagery.
The reach of Nauset Lighthouse extends far beyond its physical location. It has appeared in various films, artwork and photography. The lighthouse has been part of Cape Cod’s cinematic landscape in films such as The Finest Hours, which depicts the bravery of the Coast Guard during treacherous rescues.
Nauset’s picturesque setting has long enamored artists and photographers. As depicted in the this post, many famous paintings and photographs showcase the lighthouse, especially during the golden hours of sunrise and sunset. Its striking silhouette against vibrant skies serves as an enduring image of the Cape.
One intriguing aspect of lighthouse lore is the Great Lighthouse Debate, which stems from Edward Hopper’s famous painting Nighthawks. Some enthusiasts speculate whether the emotional ambiance of Hopper’s diners was inspired by the isolation often associated with lighthouse life. This debate adds another layer to the connections between lighthouses and American art and culture.
As I wander around the base of Nauset Lighthouse, I reflect on the lives of lighthouse keepers and their families. These guardians of the sea lived in relative isolation, dedicated to the upkeep of the light and often dealing with the challenges of culinary and domestic life amidst the unpredictable weather. Many local accounts describe the close-knit communities formed around these lighthouses, creating a unique culture centered on maritime traditions.
At this point, the good light for photography is gone, and it is time to travel a short distance to the Mass Audubon Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary for bird photography. The hope is that many of the migratory birds have not yet left for the season. It’s windy today, which could also hinder our chances for getting good bird photographs. Nevertheless, as long as we’re here, it’s certainly worth a try. Not to worry; if no luck, I know I’ll be back here in the future.