Traveling with a group of photographers, I’m here on the Isle of Sky after crossing the bridge from the mainland on this October morning in 2022. This trip was originally set to go in 2020, but because of the Covid pandemic, was postponed 2 years in a row. I had been to the Scottish Highlands while backpacking in 1978 but did not see any of the gorgeous areas, including this one, that we will be taking in on this itinerary.
We’ve been in Scotland for 5 days now, and one thing I’ve learned is that going by weather forecasts around here is worthless. The weather is so variable, there can be extremes in short amounts of time. Our trip to Quiraing on the eastern face of Meall na Suiramach is a perfect example of this.
Our vehicle ascends a steep incline into a parking lot. There is a light rain outside, and I see the professional photographers zipping up their Goretex jumpsuits. I’m dressed in waterproof boots, ski pants, a fleece and a down jacket. This is water resistant, but not waterproof. What a mistake!
A long time ago, while learning photography, I was taught that if there is inclement weather with bad light, you might as well pack it in, and come back another day. However, I learned on this trip the fallacy of this thinking.
We proceed on a path on the Trotternish Ridge escarpment, with camera bag and tripod in toe. First, it’s raining, then sleeting, and a brisk wind is blowing. My down jacket is getting soaked. On a scale of one to ten, my misery level is about a seven. Nevertheless, we set up our tripods and start shooting. My first take appears above.
Wet and cold at this point, miraculously, the weather starts to change. The rain and sleet subside, and the wind is more manageable. I keep shooting, and it now looks like I came back on a different day.
Throughout millennia, the entire Trotternish Ridge was formed by a grand series of landslips. Amazingly, Quiraing is the only part that continues to move. The road at the base of this escarpment requires that repairs be made each year.
The name Quiraing is derived from Old Norse called Kvi Rand, or “Round Fold.” Legend has it that the fold was used to conceal cattle from Viking raiders.
We continue along the ridge, stopping at different vantage points. looking for the best light, experimenting with various compositions. I’m having a great time, even though my jacket is soaked, and I’m worried that the down will start settling near the bottom. Fingers crossed!
Shooting at Quiraing, I’ve learned a few things about photographing the Scottish Highlands. The concept that landscape photography is optimal on the edges of the day does not apply. With so many clouds, the light is even, and photos taken at noon will not look that much different from those taken early or late in the day. Secondly, do not bother with the weather forecasts on your phone app. Lastly, forget trying to get by with anything except a Goretex jacket around here!